For EYOS, experience is everything—and few know the polar regions better than Ice Pilot Olaf Hartmann. In 2024, Olaf spent more days in the field than any other EYOS team member, guiding vessels through the ever-shifting ice of the Arctic and Antarctic. With decades of expertise, he has an almost instinctual ability to read the frozen landscape and guide ships safely into remote locations. Join us for a conversation with Olaf as he shares insights into the art and science of ice navigation, the challenges of maneuvering in some of the most remote environments on Earth, and the moments that keep bringing him back.
- As an ice pilot, you’re responsible for safely guiding expedition ships through some of the most remote and unpredictable waters on the planet. Can you walk us through the decision-making process when navigating ice-choked routes in Antarctica?
The most important tool for safe navigation is a reliable nautical chart. Particularly in Antarctica, there are large areas that are inadequately mapped. That’s why at EYOS we also use the OLEX system featuring routes travelled in the past. A few ships also have a WASP sonar system with which the water depth around the ship can be measured and recorded.
The second basis for route planning in polar waters is ice charts in conjunction with weather forecasts. In particular, the analyses of wind (and current) conditions, in the recent past and future days, are important in order to determine the movement of the sea ice and eventually its accumulation. Sea ice conditions can change quickly triggered by the wind and may potentially cause hazardous issues, especially for ships without any ice protection/ice class. The ice conditions are apparent on the ice charts; however, your own eyesight provides a more complete assessment if the respective ship is capable of managing the ice thickness or ice concentration.
- EYOS is known for its highly customizable itineraries. How does your role as an ice pilot contribute to shaping these bespoke experiences, ensuring both safety and adventure for clients?
For every expedition, there is a well-thought-out route plan, which determines the timing for each place we intend to visit. However, in polar waters, ice and weather conditions dictate what is possible. That’s why a high level of flexibility is essential for every expedition in high latitudes. Plans B, C, or D often have to be created based on outside conditions, permit availability of the landing site, and our ability to evaluate all circumstances in advance (some might call it „risk assessment”). A change of plans is typically the task of the expedition leader in collaboration with the team, captain, and ice pilot.
The safety of the ship and the people onboard is always the top priority without a doubt. In any ship-related decision, the captain of the vessel is certainly involved because he has the overall responsibility. Under the given circumstances, the EYOS team onboard wants to provide the finest information, share their knowledge and experience, and perform the best service. It is our obligation at EYOS to show the most impressive sites of Antarctica to our clients; this is what we strive for, this is our passion and our commitment.
- Ice conditions can change rapidly, and no two voyages are ever the same. What are the key indicators you look for when determining the best route, and how do you balance caution with exploration?
It is absolutely true that every trip to Antarctica is different from all previous trips. As already mentioned: ice and weather dictate the activities which can be done safely. However, our experience at EYOS, after traveling to Antarctica for decades, matters and gives us the excellent ability to assess and manage an expedition in various adverse situations. At any rate, our teams are always highly motivated and ambitious to open our client’s eyes to becoming enthusiastic fans and ambassadors of Antarctica. In 40 years, I have never experienced a trip to Antarctica that was disappointing for our clients or myself.
- EYOS prides itself on taking clients to places few have ever seen. Can you share a memorable moment when your expertise as an ice pilot made an extraordinary landing or experience possible?
A marine pilot is an advisor to the captain of a ship who knows the peculiarities of a certain region. Added to this, for the ice pilot it is foremost the ice in its various forms he has to pay attention to; often, the way around the ice is faster and safer than the way through the ice. This depends mainly on the capability of the ship sailing in polar waters and on the kind of ice we encounter on our way. Ideally, the captain trusts his pilot and takes advice from him when it comes to navigating in areas in which he himself is not familiar. Working on this basis, I have experienced situations on every trip in Antarctic waters that gave us unforgettable and amazing moments and encounters; for instance the watching of whales and their behavior, the exploring of huge tabular icebergs or glaciers up close (but in a safe distance) or the passing through narrow passages (like the famous Lemaire Channel) while in ice infested waters. A couple of years back we made our way into the Weddell Sea fairly close to the most northern Emperor Penguin colony at Snowhill Island, observing the majestic creatures marching over the fast ice. No movie footage can match this absolutely wonderful experience! – On another occasion, we could penetrate with the ship as far south as the abandoned Stonington Station in Marguerite Bay, south of the Antarctic Circle. A gentleman onboard who had lived and worked there for several seasons over 50 years back, visited the historic station and found the bunk he used to sleep on. This was a highly emotional moment for him and he broke down to tears because he had never believed he would be back to this place again. Ultimately, Antarctica is unforgettable in its unique and ever-surprising diversity and heroic history of explorers.
- In 2024, you’ve spent more days in the field than any other EYOS employee. What draws you back to the ice time and again, and what keeps the job exciting after so many seasons in the polar regions?
Antarctica is truly unique and beautiful. I honestly consider it a privilege to be allowed to sail into Antarctic waters and to set foot on the White Continent for years, which only a few people can do. And I am grateful for this privilege because Antarctica is never tiring but always inspiring. – Also I experience climate change and the effects of global warming up close. Therefore I feel that I am an authentic person to advocate for environmental protection. Global warming is not fake and I believe we can direct our client’s awareness to the visible changes and the results of the problem.
On the other hand, I have always been an adventurous person who enjoys exploring our colorful planet. I believe nowhere on Earth is less explored than Antarctica. The unbelievable diversity of wildlife, the ice in all its forms, sudden changes of sometimes extremely challenging weather conditions, and outstanding breathtaking wilderness all around; there are no words in my vocabulary to describe my unbroken fascination. Sometimes I have to pinch myself to make sure it is not a dream. Even after many years I am still taking pictures of these gigantic mountains of solid ice; still getting excited, and still emotionally alive. Besides all the wonders, working onboard ships is an important part of my life. To be part of the finest onboard team is just a wonderful and fulfilling joy.